He brings a gust of acrid provincial air to the ancient office. He is an angry young prophet rather than a smooth courtier. His verse is angular, savage, robust and very good.
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Jane Grigson is the nearest thing that we have on this side of the great green bouillabaisse to M F K Fisher. with learning and wit that are rarely devoted to such a banausic subject as stuffing food down one's cake hole.
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M F K Fisher is the dowager queen of writers on browsing and slicing.
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Ted Hughes has been appointed poet laureate to succeed Sir John Betjeman, which is a bit like appointing a grim young crow to replace a cuddly old teddy bear.
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What is special about Fisher is not the tedious stuff about six teaspoons of dry mustard, but the literary dressing around the sides of the recipes.
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